How a pop-up run could help you roadtest your bar

Around the Bars is the weekly newsletter from Cara Devine, unpacking what’s happening in the best Melbourne bars (and what you can learn from them), sent every Tuesday to your inbox. Sign up here.

The terms ‘takeover’ and ‘pop-up’ are often used interchangeably, but to me they are quite different in form and function. A few weeks ago I talked about takeovers and the value they can have for both those hosting and attending (when done well, that is), but they are generally a one-night-only thing, where you can experience an already established venue or bartender in different surroundings.

Pop-ups, while also temporary in nature, have a bit more longevity. Whether the same concept popping up in different spaces, or a short term habitation of a single spot, they can be a great way to test out ideas before committing to something more permanent. 

Some might remember that before Caretaker’s Cottage there was Fancy Free, first as a series of pop-ups in different bars nationally and internationally, and then in a spot on Little Collins Street which they only ever had for a matter of months. When Caretaker’s finally arrived it was perfectly formed from the outset, the guys having used Fancy Free to work out their ultimate direction and any kinks along the way.

In a time of high costs and uncertain consumer spending, pop-ups can be a great way to test the waters and allow creativity to flourish. Henry Le is best known in the Melbourne industry for being a co-owner of Ends & Means on Gertrude Street, now closed, but he started his hospitality career at age 14. Despite quickly being drawn in, at 17 he had to choose between culinary school and university; parental expectations sent him down the university path, but his culinary aspirations never died and last year he embarked on a series of pop-ups under the Third Culture Cuisine banner, which draws on his lived experience as a Vietnamese Australian. Fusion might have started to be considered a dirty word in the gastronomic world, but anyone who has tried Henry’s Chả Chiên Scotch Quail Eggs would beg to differ.

“Third Culture arose from wanting to fill that childhood desire, and find a new identity within the space [after Ends & Means],” says Henry. “The thing with pop-ups is it allows businesses to cross-pollinate their audiences. Working with different restaurants or spaces means I could be inspired by the things that the venues do, the people that work there and by their suppliers, and that helped me push forward to be more creative working with different sized spaces, different kitchens and staff of varying levels of experience.”

As I have found since opening my bar Goodwater, the hardest thing about transitioning from employee to owner is the business side of things – we can all make great drinks and show guests a good time, but the bureaucracy and cold hard numbers are often the Achilles heel for new businesses. Pop-ups can take some of that pressure off, while still allowing practice at the nitty gritty.

“Given my background in corporate consulting, everything starts with a spreadsheet,” says Henry. “We have a sit down internally and with the business we’re working with and look at, how does this make sense? How many staff do we need and how many staff do they need to run the event, what are the breakeven costs and what does a healthy margin look like from both mine and the venue’s perspective?

“It's all well and good to do something purely for enjoyment but we can’t lose money, so that’s where it starts. How do we construct an experience with an average spend per head in mind where everyone walks away happy, both from a guest experience and also from mine and the venue’s experience? 

“It’s also about the service because that’s the one thing I can’t control from the kitchen, so if I’m working with people who are quite experienced front of house, then I can be a bit more adventurous and intricate with the style of service. At Bar Bellamy, for instance, I knew everyone was very skilled so could handle multiple elements, saucing tableside and running through a complicated ingredients list. In spaces where I’m less familiar with the staff or they’re only coming in for the day to help out then I’ll do something a little more snacky and easier to manage, that requires less engagement.”

Henry is more food-focused, sure, but these are considerations that hospitality business owners of all kinds have to face, and pop-ups can be seen as trying on different outfits – while you may love a certain style, it might not be the best suit for you long term (like me and flared jeans). For anyone with the seeds of an idea, a pop-up might be the leg up you need.

Around the Bars

• Henry’s next move is to help support others with a delicious dream – he’s looking to work with other chefs or cooks who want to share their cultural heritage or lived experience through pop-ups and collaboration. Whether it's something to work on together, or him helping template out costings, managing prep lists and cooking at scale to bring an idea to fruition, he’s always happy to have a chat, so don’t hesitate to reach out to him @third_culture_melb
• The team behind the camera on Behind the Bar, Chris Sutherland and Jessie Norman, have a full time project restoring and maintaining vintage photo booths. They’ve just opened their own pop-up on Smith Street – make sure to stop by after the bar to memorialise your late night kebab.
• For anyone looking to level up their spirits or sake knowledge, Prince Wine Store in South Melbourne is now running WSET courses in spirits up to level 2, and in sake up to level 3. Don’t forget it is tax deductible! More info and bookings here.